Wind
Generators are dangerous and when the wind is honking at 35+ knots
you are going to want to stop it and tie its blades to stop it from
spinning. Think about what you are doing and take your time. This is
what happened when I got in a rush!!
Windlass Electric - we don't hesitate to reanchor, and
in the Galapagos had to reanchor at least a dozen times to get stuck
properly. Would have been hell with a manual windlass!
 Windlass
Foot Switches are great until they bust then its not funny
anymore... I have had both of them break now above and beyond the skinny
wires which run to the solenoid switch. Mine are Lewmar and I can't
believe they use un tinned copper wire for the switches. The result is
that corrosion sooner or later will get to the wire right at the micro switch.
Bummer. I pulled these
apart and soldered tinned wires into the switches. They work now but I
don't know for how long. The best solution is to carry spares...
Windlass...(2002)don't let this
happen to you..
We decided to put in a windless that had the gears & motor
mounted below the deck. After 3 years it needed a major overhaul.

Well what they don't tell you is that a windlass is well designed for what it
does..... except for the motor. The motor is Carbon Steel and has to live in a
harsh environment. The reason it is carbon steel is because they basically use a
automotive starter for the windlass. This is much less costly than manufacturing
something that will stand up.
I checked ours every 6
months or so just to see how it looked.... but I really only looked at the gear
casing (not carbon steel) in the anchor locker. Little did I know that the motor
was busy rotting away further in the locker. To compound the problem the anchor
chain had rusted over the years and the rust had managed to work it's way down
the windlass shaft into the sleeve in the gear case. 
What that means is the two parts between the drum on the deck and all the
under deck stuff wouldn't come apart. After three DAYS of pounding, WD40, temper
tantrums, it finally came apart.
 The result was what you see. A severely rusted motor housing, snapped
electrical posts & a gear case flange with a couple of busted holes.
I tried to pull the motor apart and look inside..... and managed to bust more
bolts.
In disgust I took the whole thing to the local electrical guy to get
repaired. This sad story is to be continued.......
Part 2 of story.... our windlass gearbox and motor were returned to us
about 3 weeks later (Mid January) and the motor had been sand blasted inside
& out, and the coils fixed and re-laminated, the terminal posts replaced and
the motor primed. 
This left it up to me
to remove all the old junky paint off the gearbox and then paint for
installation... I put primer & 3 coats of paint over the whole assembly.
The cost for repair was $200 US and could have been much higher if it
had gone any further....Check this gear often and don't be dumb like me....
Chain - we bought 200' of 5/16" G4 and wish we
had bought 250'. Most of the time in the Caribbean we put out about
120'. That's ok but when it starts to rust you need to turn it end for
end, that means the center section is getting used all the time.
 Refrigeration
is always a never ending topic in every anchorage we land in. If you are
handy it is not a bad idea to have a few tools to check out your system.
Above is a set of gauges that measures the pressure of the gas in the
system. Also it is not necessary bout sure helps to know someone with a
vacuum pump if your
system develops a leak. At right is a pump and a cylinder of gas I used
to refill our system. Pump is courtesy of Terry off "Stella" a
Canadian Corbin 39 out of Toronto.
  Tools
will save you a lot of money and even your life. I apply WD40 liberally
to all my hand tools... they still rust but more slowly. I also carry
one of those small torches that you can weld with. This has come in
handy a few times. For example I was able to easily solder my copper
pipes in our compressor when it developed a leak at the "quick
disconnect".
Refrigeration E-Z Kold . Works well.... but beyond
that every system down here has problems sooner or later. Marvin has
stood behind his products for us and helped us out "No Charge"
when we got in a bind. He has done this for other customers down here.
 Refrigeration
organization is important. If you store it correctly you can get more in using less
energy. Here we use simple metal/plastic baskets to sort bottles etc.
This keeps stuff off the bottom...
We use a cold plate 12 volt system
that we divide into two compartments. One for refrigeration and one for freezer.
The freezer is small, and is separated from the refrigeration side by
closed-cell foam left over from our cockpit. The foam can be moved around
depending on what our needs are at the time. Anything that goes into the
freezer is taken out of the store packaging and vacuumed as shown. This cuts way
down on volume and allows us many more meals in the small space.
The plastic tupperware container on the bottom of the fridge is used to store
veggies, lettuce, tomatoes, etc. If they go "off" then the liquid
doesn't get everywhere. We can store about 30 bottles of beer & pop on the
bottom and then we can pile even more on top of them....
 Ball
Valves need to be exercised when possible on an ongoing basis. They
should also have stainless handles on them. This one seized up on me and
when I went to close it, it busted off the the shaft at the handle. When
I finally hauled I replaced three of them. They were only four years old
but salt water attacks everything!!!
Log.... The knot log will
eventually stop working. The only way to get it going again is to clean
all the little crustaceans off the sucker. I use hydrochloric acid in 5
parts water. Pull the transducer and soak. Clean thoroughly
and replace.
Packing gland
is being
tightened. We use standard Teflon packing for less water leak. It is the
old method but very reliable. I change it with the boat in the water.
Bilge is always fun. After three
years I discovered that rain coming down the mast inside it was being
trapped in the bilge and soaking some of our lockers when we heeled
over. I am providing a path to the bilge pump here.....
Link 10
battery monitor is a must. Our first set of batteries were destroyed
in one year because they were constantly cycled. You need something like
this to tell you when to charge and at what stage your batteries are. I probably check 10 times a day.
Batteries need to be constantly monitored and these
Trojan T105's are the most easily available batteries anywhere. The cost
is relatively low and they are real work horses. I use six batteries 6V
each in series parallel combinations. I also only have only one battery bank.
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