Cruising Notes – Cape Verdes 

Weather – The Cape Verdes are about 800 miles south of the Canaries, and are subject to the Northeast Trade Winds. However, until the Trades set in (late Nov or December), it is possible to get southerlies. This is because the hurricanes form here. At such times, except for Mindelo (the only anchorage protected from all directions) the anchorages become very dangerous. There have been many, many wrecks here and sailboats washed up on the beaches. If you get strong southerlies, go to sea. It will be the only safe option. The Cruising Guide hardly mentions the danger of the southerlies, but it is very real.

There are 2 groups of islands – the northern group of Sal, Sao Nicolau, Santa Luzia, Sao Vicente, Santo Antao – and the southern group of Boavista, Maio, Santiago, Fogo and Brava. Most people choose to cruise either the northern or the southern group but not both because of the prevailing wind direction (Northeast). Most start in Sal to get cleared in. 

Charts & Guides – The Atlantic Islands Pilot is about the only one around. C-Map is accurate for Sao Vincente and Sao Nicolau but not Santa Luzia. Several cruisers went into Sal at night with no problems. 

Clearing in/Out – The three main ports for clearance are Pameira in Sal, Praia in Santiago and Mindelo in Sao Vincente. We heard that you had to go to either of the three main ports, and there would be a 500 Euro fine if you did not check in. In practice, you can clear with the harbourmaster at Tarrafal on Sao Nicolau and stay as long as you want, but they cannot stamp your passport (no Immigration there). In Mindelo, they are very laid back and don’t really check too close on when you really arrived, and where you have been. You are supposed to clear in and out of each port, and they will hold your boat papers (they want the originals). There is sometimes a small charge for clearing in (100 Escudos - .10 cents Euro) and out (500 Escudos) depending on the island. 

Security – The people are very poor. In the areas of small villages, they won’t steal from you, but in the larger towns like Praia and Mindelo, you need to lock up and raise your dinghy at night. We heard all kinds of bad stories about boat boys, but they were not pushy and a firm ‘no thank you’ will keep them away. They try to get a little something for watching your dinghy, but we just locked ours up and wouldn’t pay the extortion. But, if you need a job done, like hauling water, provisioning or cleaning the bottom, the boat boys are good at providing this service.

We heard a couple of theft stories while in Mindelo – a cruiser got his stern anchor stolen off his dinghy while tied up at the dinghy dock. Another had their dinghy tampered with one night – dinghy was in the water, chained to the mother boat – someone tried to get the gas can, and untied the rope holding it, but it was locked on with chain so they gave up. After that, they raised their dinghy at night. 

Currency – the Currency is the Escudo. The ATM’s here don’t seem to take foreign Bank machine cards – all nationalities had trouble. There are banks and moneychangers to exchange Euros for you but ask the other cruisers first because some charge a hefty commission. 1 Euro is approx 110 Escudos. You can also get a cash advance on you Visa card at the banks. 

Provisioning – Mindelo - Limited provisions. Some basic little supermarkets with limited selection, and a fresh market, also limited. There are ladies selling veggies & fruits on the streets – potatoes, onions, tomatoes, bananas, leaf lettuce, green peppers, green onions, papayas, apples and oranges. There is some fresh local cheese for sale on the streets. Beer (the local beer is actually quite good), wine (Portuguese) and rum (the rum is reported to taste pretty bad). 

Water/Fuel/Propane –

Mindelo (Sao Vincente). Diesel is available at an easy dock for duty-free (.42 Euros / liter when we were there). They prefer you to bring your boat alongside in order to prevent cruisers from buying duty-free diesel for the locals I guess, but will fill jerries if you get the right guy. Water is also available at the same dock, very inexpensive – we paid about 3 Euros for 200 liters. The water is reportedly drinkable (it is RO water) but we put a little bleach in the tanks anyway. If you only need a small amount of diesel, there is a Shell station, but the cost is .65 Euros / liter there. Camping Gaz is readily available.

Sao Nicolau has water at a tap ashore, a bit of a struggle to get it to your dinghy, and the tap is not always working, but there if you need it. 

Boat Stuff – No chandleries. Some hardware stores, and in Mindelo, the ‘marina’ owner Kai Brossmann can get just about anything fixed.

Anchorages

Most of the anchorages are thin sand or stones over rock and not very good holding. Put out a pointy anchor and tons of chain. Here are the anchorages we were at: 

Mindelo, Sao Vicente – the anchorage is big enough for 100 boats. There is also a little floating dock run by Kai Brossmann the German. But the prices are sky high at 20-30 Euros a night which is way out of line for the economy here. But he is the only game in town if you need a dock. I guess he realizes that.

Entry at night would be a little difficult because of the shore lights, but C-Map was accurate.

There is a friendly cruiser bar “Clube Nautico” right across the road from the dinghy dock, where beer is 1 Euro. The town has around 40,000 people, and there are several little supermarkets, Internet, fresh stuff, fuel, beer and water available. The buys at the dinghy dock will extort you for a fee to 'watch' the dinghy but we did not pay. No ATM - change Euros or get a Visa cash advance at the bank. Lock your boat up when you go ashore.

Sao Nicolau – Anchored at Tarafal 16’ 34.199 N / 24’ 21.799 W. This is about the best spot. Further south and you will roll your guts out as the swell bounces off the beach. Further north and you will be on rocky bottom and poor holding. Limited water available. Bananas, few other supplies. No theft, friendly people. It is reported to be the nicest island, and having done an island tour, we would agree. There is a Dutch ex-pat named “Haddie” – a cruiser friend who has a house there. He can provide his computer for you to get Internet, arranges tours and dinners at his house. His house is the light blue one at the far south end of Tarrafal town. If this is your first landfall, don't worry about clearing in, they are very relaxed about it. 

Santa Luzia – anchored at 16’ 45.022 N / 24’ 45.207 W 38 feet thin sand with rock patches. We put out 150 ft of chain, the anchor never did set, but we held in 30 knot gusts. There is lots of room so you don’t worry about dragging. It is an uninhabited island. Shore access is difficult because of high surf. 

Word of mouth reports: 

Sal – Low, flat, ugly island. Nothing interesting here and did not get good reports from cruisers – nothing going on here. But it is a place to clear in. It is the most expensive of the islands because of the International Airport bringing in tourists to the hotels - 3 to 4 times more expensive than the other islands. Fruit & veggies are available but pricey - double the price of the Canaries. Fish is available.    

The best anchorage for checking in is Baia da Palmeira : 16'45N / 22'59.2 W in 4.1 m shoaling to the NW of here. Room for 20 boats, there are some wrecks around so don't go in at night. The lighthouse is not working. The bottom is thin sand and the bay is not safe in a southerly. Fruits & vegetables are available but are poor quality. Reasonably safe place for the dinghy at the beach or fishing quay. No kids are asking to watch your dinghy. Ashore, there is water available for a small charge by jerries at the Shell station, best place to fuel up. An Internet cafe at Espargos, an ATM, produce and shops in Espargos.

Baia de Santa Maria on the south side is touristy with hotels, but mixed reports about theft and protected from NNW swell. ATM and Internet.

Baia da Mordeira, is protected by mountains but may be untenable in NW swell.

Boavista – A flat island, with sand dunes & date palms. Check in at Porto de Sal Rei – secure in most conditions but rolly. Water & diesel is available, but not much fresh stuff. Internet available. It is secure (no theft) and the people are nice. Anchor just southeast of the little island Ile de Sal Rei near the beach for less roll. Leave the dinghy on the beach or the fishing quay. Anchorage is not safe in a southerly. In fact may not be safe at all - one cruiser reported a tidal wave sucked out the water in the anchorage in the middle of the night and then a big flood - right out of the blue. They had to leave the anchorage.

Santo Antao – no good anchorages. Best to leave the boat in Mindelo and take the ferry over for an island tour. But if you want to go, the best anchorage of a bad bunch is at Tarrafal.

Maio – Dry, low island. Yachts are a rarity. It is safe (no theft) with deserted beaches, fish, birds, turtles. Anchorage at Porto de Maio is reported not very good but maybe worth a try. 

Santiago – The main town is Praia and it has a worse reputation for theft than Mindelo (it is bigger).  Population 15, full of Nigerians and refugees - desperate people and very poor - be careful!! You can clear out here. Fresh produce available, a few supermarkets, water & diesel, several internets. Lock up here! Pickpockets are here and work in teams of 4. 

Baia do Tarrafal sounds a bit better but is reported full of local moorings. The bottom is rocky but a little better at the far south end of the bay. Ashore, there is limited supplies, some veggies like tomatoes. potatoes, onions. You can get water for laundry near the bungalows. No harbourmaster. Leave your dinghy on the beach and pay a kid 50 cents a day to guard it. Water, diesel, internet.

Fogo – no real safe harbours, but spectacular. Can climb the volcano - a 4 hour hike - but need to leave someone on the boat because the harbour is not good holding. Anchor south of the old mole - the short one - with a line to the shore or mole. Leave the long quay free for ships. Swell and chafe will be the problem. There is room for 3-4 yachts max. The bottom is 4m over sand and rocks. The dinghy is safe ashore. Water, diesel, internet available. OK to visit even though you are checked out at Praia. 

Brava – Steep and beautiful. No fuss from the harbourmaster even though you are checked out of the country at Praia. No fresh stuff, no diesel, water or internet. Come fully stocked up. The town Nova Sintra very pretty. The anchorage at “Port” de Furna is tiny – only a few hundred meters in diameter. Anchor and take stern line to the north shore of the bay.