Cruising notes –American Samoa

Weather:

The Samoas (American and Western) are up in the area called the SPCZ (South Pacific Convergence Zone) where, at most times of the year it rains and is squally. We kept track of this line using weather faxes and tried to avoid it, but sailed along its edge for a bit unavoidably. It was not horrendous (though it can be) just rain and a little stronger winds.

We ran the weather faxes and bulletins using Winlink, and also talked to “Des” on Russel Radio, who gives you a nice synopsis of what to expect over the short term. 

Charts and Guides:

We had no paper charts of Pago Pago harbour itself, so I printed some computer charts just so we would have a backup in case all electronics failed.

We used Landfalls of Paradise for cruising info but its pretty outdated and not very specific. I don’t like Landfalls of Paradise but it was better than nothing. 

Check in Procedure:

This is very involved.

First you call the Harbour Control on VHF 16. He may or may not answer. If he answers, ask permission to enter the harbour and for instructions. He will most likely tell you to tie up at the so-called customs “dock”. This is a horrible, broken down old rough concrete landing area with rusty old hunks of metal for cleats. You may have to raft to as many as 4 other boats if somebody is already there.

OK, so far so good.

Now you just wait. You are not supposed to go ashore but who can resist a little walk after a passage? The Customs, Immigration and all sorts of officials will come to you (eventually) – you may have to expedite this through Harbour Control. You need 5, count ‘em 5, copies of the crew list. When the officials arrive, just do what they tell you, they are actually very nice even they look like big threatening Samoans!

After you are finished with customs & immigration, then you can leave your boat. Don’t go anchor yet, though. Go to the Harbour Control office and get yet another piece of paper from there. He will tell you that you can go anchor now.

The cost was an outrageous  $102.00 US payable when you leave. For what? For nothing that's what. The harbour fees are supposedly written on the harbour document you get at check in, but was so poorly worded it was not clear at all.  The harbour charges 25.00 every time you move your boat - they count entering the harbour as one move, leaving the harbour as another move! Customs charges 52.00 - again for what I don't know. Too bad. We told our friends to prepare themselves for this cost and every one of them gave Pago Pago a pass for this reason. It's not that nice or that cheap that it's worth $102.00!

Anchoring:

This harbour is famous for its filth. It was not as bad as I thought it would be (but then, I have been to Colon!)

The bottom is about 6 inches of plastic bags, fishing lines, trash, then a layer of ooze over hard. Nice. The long-term cruisers who live here recommended we put 2 anchors in series on the same chain, one will drag through the plastic and clear a path for the other to hook. Many captains think these people don’t know what they are talking about and set out one anchor, and proceed to drag all over the harbour. We just did the 2 anchor thing and so far so good.

There are moorings, but they were few, and all were taken when we were there.

Ask the locals where it is best to anchor, because there is junk, wrecks and chains on the bottom that can hook your anchor, never to be seen or heard from again. 

Goods & Services:

We were pleasantly surprised by most things in American Samoa.

Laundry is cheap at 75 cents wash, do it yourself right close to the dinghy dock.  Lots of machines and clean. Open 24 hours a day, with attendant so you can get change if you need it.

The buses are 50 cents or 75 cents depending on how far you go.

There are several good grocery stores, a Cost-U-Less, hardware stores, but no chandlery as such. No charts or guides available. There is a large commercial fleet here so there are boat parts but special stuff for sailboats has to be ordered in. This is easy, fast and duty free from West or those places, because this is US Territory.

Fabric is especially cheap – 90 cents a yard for the tropical flowered stuff to make shirts and dresses. Or you can buy the flowered shirts already made up for 9.00

Beer was not a bargain at all - $27 US a case! We were disappointed at this.

There is TV here! Nice to have CNN, but only 1 station. Can’t have everything.

If you need to see a doctor or dentist, they are here and well trained from the USA.