Cruising Notes New Caledonia June 2003
Weather
New Caledonia is in the cyclone belt and they were hit
3 times this past season. However there are lots of mangrove cyclone holes so
spending cyclone season here is a real possibility. If you dont mind keeping
a close eye on the weather on a daily basis. There are 3 huge marinas in Noumea
with a variety of large & small sailboats and powerboats, and they stay here
all year.
Charts & Guides
The entrances to Noumea are all on the lee side of the
island but with the Southeast Trade winds there is scant protection. But the
passes are very wide and well marked so no problem for a yacht to enter big
huge cruise ships come in here. We used Passe Boulari to come in well marked
with a big lighthouse, and Passe Dumbea to exit very wide.
We used electronic charts and they were very accurate. We also have our usual paper charts for verification.
There is an electronic cruising guide out there on CD and good for planning if you want to cruise around. We did not get to the Isle of Pines (2 day sails to get there) so we cannot comment on any of the cruising in the South lagoon.
There also is a nice detailed cruising guide available in
New Cal, complete with glossy pages and colour photos but quite expensive and
not worth the price unless you are planning an extensive tour around the island.
Customs & Immigration
Arriving - You come in to Port Moselle Marina (call on VHF 67 for instructions) to the customs-designated dock. No problem, no current and room to manoeuvre. You even get to stay one night free, but after that it is about 20.00 US per night. We left after our free night and anchored out.
All the officials come to your boat on the dock. Quarantine took our fresh fruit & veggies (we heard they only take the good-looking stuff the old rotten stuff they leave! So you figure out what they do with your food). The usual routine and no problems, stamp the passports and you are free to go ashore.
Departing you need to go by foot to the Port area
not far and see Customs, Immigration and finally the Port Captain. No fees
just a couple of hours of running around and filling out paperwork.
Services & Boat stuff
Laundry is 10.00 US wash, 10.00 dry so we got out the laundry buckets.
Provisioning is typically overpriced French colony fare we bought little except fresh stuff. Baguettes are inexpensive and great!
There is no book exchange anywhere.
Internet - The CNC Yacht Club does not allow non-members.
But, they find this so hard to explain in English for us Anglophones, they just
let us in. There are 2 internet computers there for our use just ask if its
OK at the bar first. If you buy beer its free, otherwise about 4.00 US an hour.
There are also internet cafes in Noumea but about 10.00 US an hour.
Boat parts there are a couple of chandleries and all the usual stuff is there if you need it. A bit pricey but if you have to have it, you have to have it. There is a travel lift at the CNC club so if you need hauled out you can certainly find a way. We had alternator work done at a little hole-in-the-wall by a family of Vietnamese. Just ask around to the cruisers who have been here awhile and you will find whatever you might need.
Security Noumea is very safe. You can walk around at night, but we always locked our dinghy and our boat when we left it alone. Most people did not lock their dinghy at the dinghy dock. People are very affluent here and are on the dole of the French government so presumably dont need to steal. Consequently also, you dont get hassled to buy things or go on island tours and stuff by the locals.