Cruising Notes – Maldives (Uligamu) 

Weather – The recommended time for the passage – the Northeast monsoon – usually gives you pretty steady E through NNE winds anywhere from 0 to 15 or 20 knots. Seas are sometimes lumpy but usually just swelly. 

Charts & Guides – About the only detailed guide I have seen is the Pub 173 Sailing Directions for Indian Ocean & Bay of Bengal. But if you are planning to cruise around,  there are guide books available in Male (which is where you would have to go to get your cruising permit anyway). We have heard good things about the cruising down around the Male area. 

Ports & Anchorages

– in Male, a reportedly good anchorage is north of the airport at 04 deg 12.9N/ 073 deg 32.0 E

- In Uligamu we anchored at 07 deg 04.633N/ 072 deg 55.362E in 29 feet sand

Within the northernmost atoll, where Uligamu is,  there are only certain limited areas you are allowed to go. They want you back at the 'town' anchorage at night, and within their sight if you leave the anchorage for one of the other little islands within the atoll.

Clearing in & Out –

Male - one cruiser this year arrived in Male with a dog and it was a very big problem as dogs are forbidden. He had an agent working on the problem.

In Male – various agents compete for your business. “Abdul” of “AMSCO” (Alliance Management Services Co.) charges $50 US for his fee, then $42 US for various customs and harbour fees. This will allow a 2 week stay and then daily fees apply after the 2 weeks. Other agents charge up to $170 to check in. Officials come on board, fill out forms, ask for firearms & spearguns, which they will hold while you are there.

“Hamman” of “ALLIANCE” charges $50 for <50 foot boat, $75 for >50 foot, entry fee $5 US, and Cruising Permit $15 US. The cruising permit takes 3-7 days to get, but if you email Hamad in advance, he will have it ready when you arrive. And he will give you a 10% discount if you email in advance. His email is mhameed@alliancemarine.com.mv 

In Uligamu – you can get up to a 30 day visa to stay here (no charge). No agents, no charges except a $5 US anchoring fee for 2 weeks. If you stay longer, there is a small additional anchoring fee. But, you cannot take the boat anywhere else except the immediate anchorage area. Even if you want to take the dinghy to the next little island in the atoll for a day of snorkeling, you must ask permission – and they want to be able to see you at all times.  No charge at Uligamu for clearing out.

“The Rules”

This is a funny little closed society. You are given a rule sheet when you are cleared in. We never figured out what they are concerned about but some of the ‘rules’ made us raise our eyebrows:

No local people allowed on your boat. You are not allowed to give any of the local people any kind of ‘gift’ or make any donation eg to the school or something, without clearing it with Customs. You cannot go ashore between 10PM and 6AM but if you need to be ashore after dark, you need to clear it with Customs. No alcohol allowed ashore. You must dress properly, especially they say, us women! (Makes you feel like a wanton western slut).

Excursions - You can take a day trip to the town onn the other side of the atoll, stop at a couple of spots for snorkeling, walk the town (they escort you and never let you out of their sight!) and have a nice $2.50 local lunch of mooshoni & roshi (spicy tuna salad with coconut rotis – really great!) or hire a local boat to take you fishing at the other little islands. The price for the day trip is $60US for the boat (up to 10 people) and fishing $15 per person (up to 5) always price negotiable.

Aside from that, there really is not a lot to do here so it is a nice rest – time to get boat work done, read, write & snorkel (nice clear water, lots of colourful fish even though the reef is dead – moray eels, manta rays & dolphins but no sharks!) 

Provisions – One yacht reported provisioning in Male was ‘better than Thailand’ and everyone speaks English.

In Uligamu there are only the most basic of basics but one of the two ‘service agents’ can arrange to have some necessities sent up from the main ‘town’ of 2500 people on the island across the atoll. They grow breadfruit, coconuts, papayas & bananas. Also available sometimes are potatoes, onions, tomatoes, garlic and some nice hydroponics cucumbers. But they want a lot of money for all the produce (I guess we cruisers are one of the very few sources of income here!) so we didn't buy any. Some limited canned stuff can be bought; bread comes in once a week I think.

Basically, be prepared to be self-sufficient here in Uligamu. 

Boat repairs – none in Uligamu but one cruiser got some welding done at the town on the island across the atoll. We went along for the ride on the ferryboat and all split the cost of $38. 

Fuel – diesel is .60 US a liter by jerry jug, and add .03 a liter to deliver to your boat. 

Water – rain water (drinkable) can be bought .05 US a liter in jugs, and .08 US a liter to deliver to your boat. 

Laundry - $1 US per kilogram. Reportedly not really dried that well.