Weather
– We were told by several people to get across the Aegean before the end of
June. In July and August, the ‘meltemi’ wind comes strong from the northwest.
This wind apparently blows 30-40 knots and makes a miserable crossing and many
of the anchorages in the Greek islands uncomfortable.
Otherwise, the wind is mostly from the northwest. We tacked back and forth across the Aegean, sailing almost all the way, and visited those islands and harbours that the wind allowed us to do.
Charts & Guides – Rod Heikell’s “Greek Waters Pilot” is still the best guide, but expensive, way overkill and a ton of book to stow.
We used C-Map and found them dead accurate and detailed for everywhere we visited.
Formalities – If coming from outside the EU, at your
first Greek port you need to go and see the officials. There is a whole list of
what these ports are in
www.noonsite.com (See “Countries” and then “Greece”). The order may vary,
but you must see immigration, customs and the port captain (port police or
harbour master). You will be issued a “Transit Log” or cruising permit. No need
to list in advance those islands and ports you intend to visit. The charge for
entry varies according to your nationality. Canadians and Americans paid 30
Euros for the transit log. Another 15 Euros was for some kind of boat fee or tax
or something, and that varies to the size of the boat. They also want to see
your boat insurance papers and you need at least third party liability to be
legal in the Med.
You are allowed to stay 90 days and are supposed to check in at each island or port where there is a port captain. If you do, they will charge a small fee for anchoring or docking, so in practice, nobody checks in. Just let them come to you and collect, but you will probably never see anyone.
Provisioning – The Greek islands in the Aegean had
poor provisioning although we still found fresh stuff and basics. We have been
unspoiled for so long we did not find the provisioning a hardship at all. We
found fresh romaine lettuce and other fresh fruits & veggies, fresh milk,
cheese, all kinds of canned stuff and pasta, paper products, coffee, everything
that you need. Prices are first-world (i.e. not cheap). There is a grocery chain
called "Dia" that is usually pretty good, and a bulk and case-lot place called "Lydl"
- if you see either of these places, stock up. Beer & wine prices and
quality varied considerably from island to island. Best beer prices were in “Dia”. We found one in Ios and one in Methoni on the
Peloponnese. Beer was .37 (Euro cents) per can vs .67 everywhere else. If we had
known that we would have stocked up. Best cheap drinkable wine was in Ios too –
local red bottled from the barrel in 2 liter plastic water bottles for a couple
of bucks. If you try a smaller (2l) bottle and like it you can then buy it by
the gallon jug. Best to try a small bottle first because we found some pretty
bad ones.
Boat Stuff –
Chandleries - There were no chandleries in any of the Greek Islands we visited. We found a small one in Pilos on the Peloponnese. There are basic hardware stores in Peloponnese but I think you have to go to the Athens area for the big chandleries, haul out and that sort of thing. Athens area has several very large marinas.
Water - Water is available on a hit and miss basis. If you go to the town quays water is usually available for free or a small charge. We found free water at Kos (see anchorage below), and Methoni on the Peloponnese.
Laundry - Laundry is by your own bucket.
Fuel - Fuel by jerry or direct to your boat by a little tiny tanker truck to the town quay.
Eating out - There are millions and millions of restaurants called ‘tavernas’ which we found served poor quality expensive food and grog. Maybe we just didn’t luck out! We mostly ate on the boat.
Anchorages & Marinas –
In general, the anchorages in the Greek islands were pretty poor. Most had sand/weed bottoms and poor holding. Often we pulled up big ‘beaver pelts’ of thick weed. Our new ‘tooth’ anchor held well in this stuff and I think the Bruce would have just pulled up clumps of weed. You need a pointy anchor to dig through the weeds. All the places below are anchorages, unless otherwise specified. On top of this, the anchorages are crowded with charter boats that anchor close to you on short scope and very small anchors and don’t stick around to make sure they are dug in. I don’t mean to sound like a complainer, but it is the reality. Many times it is very gusty in these anchorages so this adds to the feeling of insecurity.
The anchorages in the Peloponnese area were, with the exception of Port Kaio, much better. Less crowded, better holding and no charter boats, even in high season.
Aegean Sea:
Simi - Recommended - Simi harbour– we didn't take our boat here, but the main town harbour has lots of room to spin around and get figured out how to go bow-or stern-to so don’t be scared. There are dock guys to help you too. Good place to get cleared in to Greece. Nice town.
Recommended by others – Panormittis 36’ 33.06 N / 27’ 50.78 E All around shelter, but you won't be able to get a bus to Simi town.
Not recommended – Pethi - 36’ 36.839 N / 27’ 51.469 E. Thick weed and junk on the bottom. Good enough to leave the boat in settled weather to go over the hill by bus and check in. But really not very secure with so much weed on the bottom.
Tilos - Recommended - Ormos Livadhiou – 36’ 24.863 N / 27’ 23.363 E 40 ft sand & weed. Huge bay not crowded. Can buy water at town quay. You can tie up to the wall at town quay but I thought it was crowded and not much maneuvering room. Besides, the anchorage is huge, not crowded and comfortable.
Kos island: watch for gusty wind at the points of Ak Fouka, Ak Kholona, Ak Krikellos.
Recommended – Ormos Kamares – 36’ 44.323 N / 26’ 58.371 E 15 ft sand. Huge bay. Free water from the town quay (look for a little ‘shrine’ containing the tap). Can jerry jug fuel but you will need a cart – service station is a bit of a hike. There is a bus to the town of Kos every half hour.
Not recommended by others – main Kos harbour on NE side of island is full to bursting with local ferries, tour boats and charter yachts.
Nisos Yiali island – small island just south of Kos is ugly. It’s all just rock quarrying. Nothing there but can seek shelter if you have to.
North of Kos: Notes from others - Khios has a new free marina at 38' 23.2 N / 26' 08.4 E, Samos has a good, protected anchorage at Possidonion, a poor anchorage at Pithagorion. But at Pithagorion thre is a new marina, possibly free at 37' 41.5 N / 26' 57.5 E.
Astipalaia I: Recommended – Ormos Livadhi – 36’ 32.334 n / 26’ 20.607 E 30 ft sand.
Recommended by others – Vathi – 36’ 36.5 N / 26’ 23.0 E – peaceful but thick weed bottom. Ormos Maltezana – 36’ 34.43 N / 26’ 23.22 E very protected.
Samos: Not recommended by others – Pithagorion harbour – protected but have to anchor stern-to in a circular area so anchors get tangled to your neighbours. Better to anchor outside of the inner harbour.
Thira (or Santorini I): Recommended by others – South side of island 36’ 20.86 N / 25’ 23.49 E 20 ft sand. Need settled weather or at least winds from the north. Open to the south completely. Many cruisers recommend going to a neighbouring island like Naxos, and taking the ferry to Thira.
Not recommended by others – any of the anchorages inside the caldera on the west side of the main island. Deep and poor holding.
Ios: Recommended – Ormos Mangarani 36’ 39.286 N / 25’ 22.349 E 30 ft sand. But definitely not OK in southerlies. Still good holding but a dreadful choppy swell rolls in.
Recommended – Ormos Milopotamou 36’ 42.652 N / 25’ 17.592 E 27 ft sand. Rolly in a south-westerly but still good holding.
Not recommended – the main town anchorage no longer allows anchoring because of the many large ferries coming and going all the time. You must tie up (it is free). We anchored in a tiny rock-bordered cove at 36’ 42.951 N / 25’ 16.055 E 30 ft sand but were not comfortable enough there to spend the night.
Great provisioning here at the “Dia” store, got diesel delivered to the town dock and filled our jerries.
Milos - reported to be a good anchorage at Adhamas to the southeast of the marina, or in the big bay at the far east corner.
Kimolos - Apollonia is reportedly full of small boat moorings, hard to find room and very poor holding.
Levitha I: Recommended by others – Ormos Levitha at the far east end– pretty, quite and protected.
Amorgos - reported to be a beautiful island not often visited. anchor at 36'49.7 N / 25' 51.5 E. At Katapola, anchor across from the main town to avoid the sewage outflow. Another good anchorage at Kalotiri off the little island of Nikouria, very peaceful, clear water but snorkel on your anchor as it is hard sand.
Naxos: Report from another cruiser - go to the main town dock - very cheap, leave your boat there and take the ferry to Thira, stay a couple of nights. Just come in, jill around and someone will help you dock. You can anchor too, but it gets very rolly with the ferries. Between Naxos and Paros, the channel can be rough.
Paros: good anchorage reported at O Naousis, either closest to town at O Plastira at its west end, or at O Ay Ioannou.
Sifnos : anchorages recommended by others – Ormos Vathi 36’ 55.62 N / 24’ 41.01 E very protected, Faros anywhere, O Kastro.
Serifos :
Ormos Livadhi 37’ 08.755 N / 24’ 31.073 E – Not sure if I
recommend this or not. The holding is quite poor in places and we dragged after
being OK for 2 days. It is also on the charter boat ‘path’ and some days you get
surrounded. There is a good hike to the fascinating and pretty town
on the hill and a great view from up top.
Delos, Rinia and Mikonos: Reported from others - Mikonos is not worth a visit; but you can anchor at Ornos Bay 37'25.3 N / 25' 19.5 uneven holding. Anchor at Rinia in South Bay 37' 22.9 N / 25' 14.2 E, isolated, no facilities. Or at Rinia at the north end of O Schino, a great anchor age with a deserted ancient village. Or on the Rinia side of the channel between Rinia and N.Megalo Remmatia and from there you can dinghy over to Delos. You need a Lonely Planet guide to be able to explore and appreciate Delos.
Siros - Finikas is reported to be a good anchorage and stopping place with good shelter and holding.
Loutra - reported good shelter but gusty at Ay Stefanos/Ioannis, and reported that you can tie up alongside the quay for free at the main town of Loutra.
Kithnos I: Recommended by others – Apokriosis and Fikiadha – nice & peaceful. Usually only yachts here. Anchor either side of sandbar at O Fikadha. There is nothing to see or do at Merikha. O Loutra is reported good shelter from the Meltemi winds.
Kea - Reports from others - Ay Nikolaou has moorings at the far east end of the O Bourkari but you can still anchor on the north side of the bay outside of the moorings. The anchorage off the disued foundry is now a swimming area. You can anchor at O Livadhi. O Kavia is gusty.
The Corinth Canal area: All this information is from others. We did not go through the Corinth Canal. Trixonia is reported to be a good anchorage with a free marina. The Corinth canal costs 100 Euros. In Corinth there is a yacht club but it is busy, small and shallow. Better to tie up for free at the commercial harbour where it is very quiet.
Peloponnese: Listed east to west
Recommended by others – Ieraka (Yerakas) 36’ 47.2 N / 23’ 05.3 E. Also Koiladhia 37’ 25.4 N / 23’ 06.8 E for inexpensive haul out and winter aboard – last year a cruiser wintered aboard for 600 Euros for 6 months plus extra for haulout. Very cheap, including electricity, TV everything. Maybe worth checking out.
Recommended – Monemvasia – North or south of the causeway depending on wind. Sand bottom. Can tie up free to walls either side. Water available. Great hike up the mountain and to see the old city. Decent provisioning.
Elephinosis Island – recommended. O.Frangos is the best spot at 36’ 27.954 N / 22’ 58.836 E 15 ft sand. Great spot, nice beach, no restaurants or facilities. You can also anchor in the larger bay called O.Sarakiniko, or at O.Levki depending on the wind.
Yithion - is reported as a pleasant stop, not touristy. Anchor on the north side of the N.Kranai causeway. Or you can tie up and leave the boat safely to tour nearby town of Mistra.
Port Kaio – a convenient stop but not a good one.36’ 25.988
N / 22’ 28.989 E 24 ft sand & weed. We didn’t feel that the holding was very
good, and it was windy and gusty the night we spent. There is another spot to
anchor near the hamlet, which may have been better, but there was no room for
us.
Kalamata - Reportedly has a reasonably priced marina where you can leave the boat safely and tour Sparta, which was reported as a disappointment as the city is totally in ruins. But nearby is an ancient ruin and great town called Mistra.
Koroni – a convenient stop but not really recommended. Anchored 36’ 47.915 N / 21’ 57.521 E in 14 ft sand, mud, weeds. You need to anchor in shallow water near the town. Further out there are huge boulders to snag your anchor and rode. There is nothing ashore – a town and fort to hike to but nothing special. Provisioning is very expensive for some reason.
Methoni – highly recommended. Anchored 36’ 48.951 N / 21’ 42.525 E 11 ft sand. Free water on the dinghy dock (just be discreet and not piggish), really great fort to hike, nice town and good provisioning at the “Dia” store.
Ormos Navarinou (Pilos) – highly recommended. Anchored in the huge bay at 36’ 57.118 N / 21’ 39.968 E 16 ft sand. Nice beach, great hike up to the fort, no facilities. Dinghy to Pilos (2.5 miles) or take the big boat in to tie alongside the wall at the unfinished marina for free or almost free. Great town, good provisioning. A local Greek cruiser told us he winters at the town dock here every year for free.
Katakolon - recommended by others. Leave your boat tied to the wall, rent a car and drive to see the temples nearby.
The Northern Ionian: all the information below is from others and the places are listed north to south.
Corfu: Clear out, but no need to, in Corfu. The anchorage on the south side of the little peninsula where Corfu town is is sheltered from the NW wind but reported to be rolly.
Paxoi: Lakka, on the north coast is landlocked, pretty, can be crowded and a little rolly.
Levkas: Vlikho - recommended. Great anchorage, huge, protected, mud bottom. Anchor right in the middle of the landlocked bay. Ormos Sivota is also good anchorage.
Meganisi: recommended. Lots of anchorage possibilities.
Ithaca: Frikes is very windy, Vathi is a very good anchorage, but again, very windy. Pera Pigadhi has swimming rats - don't go here!
Cephalonia: Argostoli is not a bad place, not touristy, put your own anchor down, back in to the town dock for free or close to it. Fiskardho is a tourist town, but again you can drop anchor, back to the shore, swim ashore and tie to a tree on the north shore, or drop anchor and back to the town dock for free or close to it. Ay Eufimia is also recommended.
Levkas to Nisis Oxia: mainland coast & adjacent islands. recommended anchorages are Kastos on N.Kastos, the south anchorage on N Atoko, O.Marathia on the mainland north east of N.Dragonera. Lots of anchorages around teh Dragonera and Echinades islands.
Zakinthos: Keri is reported to be a great stop, very pretty. DO NOT ANCHOR anywhere off Lagana - this is a turtle sanctuary and there are huge fines if you do. Check, maybe Keri is off limits too.